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===Specs=== * 16" Machined Alloy Clad Wheels * 16" GoodYear Eagle BSW All-Season Performance Tires * Power Sunroof * Power Heated Front Bucket Seats w/ Front Driver's 2-Position Memory * Ruffled Leather Seating Surfaces w/ Matching Front and Rear Door Panel Inserts * Premium Dark Wood Interior Trim * A/M-F/M-Cassette-CD Stereo w/ 5-Band Equalizer (EQ) * Quadra-Drive I Full-Time Permanent 4WD/4X4 System * Home-Link System (3 Devices) * 5.9L "Magnum" High-Output Gasoline V8 Engine, 250 Horsepower, 300 # Feet of Torque * 4-Speed Sports Automatic Transmission w/ Overdrive * Performance Handling Springs * Power Flip-Up Rear Window * Auto-Dimming Rearview Mirror * Body-Color Power Heated Foldaway Side Mirrors * Deluxe Overhead Console w/ Compass and Temperature * High-Intensity Discharge (HID) Front Head and Fog Lamps * Body-Colored Front Upper Grille w/ Black Mesh Plastic Inserts * Carpeted Premium Front and Rear Floor/Cargo Area Mats <br> <br> ===Links=== [http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/definitive-injector-swap-how-1305456/ ZJ injector swap guide]<br> [http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/ratmonkeys-build-progress-3-4-ton-37s-745686/#post6959054 Fix autodim side mirror]<br> [http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f13/official-zj-exhaust-thread-videos-sound-clips-1446914/ JeepForum.com exhaust sound thread]<br> <br> [http://pacificcoastmanuals.com/jeep_grand_cherokee_service_manuals.html Jeep Grand Cherokee Service Manuals]<br> <br> [http://www.ironrockoffroad.com Iron Rock Off Road]<br> [http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-ZIEK&Category_Code=PFZ Iron Rock Off Road exhaust]<br> [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-853057/overview/ Summit Racing Flowmaster Super 50 (50 SUV)]<br> <br> fan switch sensor - MD177572? <br> <br> ===Power Mirror Fix=== Inside the mirror there is a sensor that tracks where it sits and this gets dirty and it screws up.Here is the fix. Put the window down, as its easier to work,take the mirror and tilt it down all the way.Now carefully pull up on the mirror and it will unsnap from the housing.Lay it down on the door with a rag under it so as not to scratch the door.Now if you look there are 4 little tabs hooked into the plastic frame that the mirror attached to.........take a little flat screwdriver and carefully unhook/pry them out.Once you have them unhooked take and carefully put your fingers behind the frame and pull it off the pivot in the centre of the motor assy.Once that is off take and remove the torq. screws holding the motor to the mirror frame.Holding it flat,take out the rest of the screws.There are 2 more under the little rubber "condom" that goes over the 4 little arms.Now VERY carefully separate the 2 halves. Make sure the arms stay in the motor!! Once you have the arms off,you;ll see the little "fingers" against the little resistor strip.VERY carefully ,and not mixing up the arms,take them out,clean off the old grease from the strips in the motor, and then clean up the "fingers",being careful as they are very easily bent.Bend them out a bit so they have good contact and then regrease them with dilectric grease(radio shack etc)Your done!! Just reverse the steps to put it back together. <br> <br> Mike Leach headers<br> http://faq.dakota-truck.net/Electronics/mike_leach.html<br> [[File:THY-630Y (1).jpg]]<br> http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1725 ===Exhaust options=== * DTs ceramic FTW * Mike Leach * Edelbrocks * any one of two sets of shorties ceramic coated * 93s w/down pipes- done correctly all the way back * Down pipe mod-W/proper Y connector into full 3" mandrel * Cat back with 3" cat * Cat back ====DT CERAMICS==== * The design fits!!!!! * The merge is the best design of any header made for our engines * The connection is 3" * The ceramic does wonders for evacuating heat from the engine compartment ====The Mike Leach==== * Made by Mother Mopars designer * The fitment is a no go for me for reasons of the curious routing of the connector pipe and the less than optimum merge??? Why did they do that??? * Primary pipe configuration is the same as DTs * They fit! ====Edelbrocks===== * Top seller * They are not tuned! * Coated which is the only way to go (seen a rusted out set on a 9er that just made me laugh! * Merge at the primary tubes is four into one with 2 1/2 collector???? * Down pipes and connection to exhaust is a paltry 2 1/2 " * I don't like that design at all, unless its going on a non modded motor.... ====Shortie Headers==== * Have a set, there four into one design, with 2 1/2" collectors * You build the down pipes and connection to exhaust,< this is an advantage!!!! * Headmans fit but are close * Block huggers may need modification to the frame rail (consider if the ZJ is lifted or lowered) * Cost makes this a top choice w/addition of correct down pipes and merge collectors ====93 Factory Exhaust Manifolds==== * They are not headers but flow characteristics are the best of watt came stock!!!!! * No gaskets needed<big advantage!!!! * Large diameter down pipes, you fab the correct merge< another advantage! * Lowest cost of all exhaust modifications * They fit!!! * Considering all factors including cost of HP returned, Its my second overall pick!!! ====Whats left==== Now, I did the down pipe mod with Flowmaster merge collector and I liked the way it worked!!!! It eliminated the two crush areas at each factory down pipe, then with the correct merge collector you eliminate the third area of concern by doing away with the factory piss poor merge! If this area is fabbed correctly you now have a 3" connection to a 3" Hi-Flow cat....Now use a true mandrel tail pipe to eliminate the fourth factory crush zone at the rear track-bar.....Muffler as always is your choice....but it should be pointed out that better flow is the deciding factor, and noise generally goes with flow.................................. <br> <br> ---- Back to [[Main_Page|Main Page]]

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